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BALI UPDATE #049  - 17 JUNE 1998
ALL QUITE ON THE EASTERN FRONT
Taking full advantage of modern technology, this edition of BALI UPDATE is being sent to you from on board a ship sailing north of the island of Sumbawa. Like Bali, the islands of Sumbawa,  Lombok and Komodo are as beautiful as ever and, most importantly, as peaceful as ever. If there is any change to report from this visit to Western and Eastern Nusa Tenggarra when compared to my many past visits - it is the eagerness of the people to welcome back visitors too long absent from the villages and cities. Like the Balinese, the people of the islands east of our island have continued to live a very peaceful existence over the past weeks and months and find it hard to comprehend why foreign tourists might ever consider it unsafe to visit their islands.

 
GANESHA GALLERY ELEVATES THE ARTS OF BALI
        Bali is an island long renown for its culture and  arts. In fact, it represents just one aspect of the wealth of arts in the Indonesian archipelago. To bring even a portion of these arts to an international level of exposure and share then with the world is an ambitious idea for a hotel. A small, intimate and soulful gallery has proven to be a very good place to start.
        Art galleries and resort hotels may seem an odd combination, especially when the gallery takes a philanthropic rather than commercial stance. But the management team at the  Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay has found that its new Ganesha Gallery enhances guests' experiences. "It gives them an opportunity to see the artistic aspects of Indonesia close-up and to meet the artists," says Royal Rowe, one of the hotel's managers.
         Ganesha Gallery is the brainchild of Rowe and Four Seasons Regional Vice President Neil Jacobs. The idea blossomed in six months, with a small investment of about US$50,000 in structural renovations and minimal operation expenses. The resort has reaped many-fold its investment in recognition and exposure. "The space is dedicated to art appreciation rather than  commercialism," says the resort's public relations director Julia Gajcak. "Among our goals was to contribute to the island and the community, sharing the message of art. We are doing the right thing by creating another level of understanding."
        Ganesha Gallery brings together and highlights a wealth of Indonesian talent-with an emphasis on Balinese artists-and a core of artists from around the world whose work is influenced by Bali. "Encouraging local artistic talent and promoting Indonesian art abroad, Ganesha Gallery builds a foundation to enrich the local community and the art lovers from around the world," says gallery manager Ambar Bediaci Arini.  "This showcase gives artists a venue to share their understanding and the perspective of life on this magical island."
        "We elected to represent quality in a non-profit manner," says Rowe. "That was a radical departure from the hotel business, but we gained our owners'  commitment when they recognized it not as a money-making venture but a way to benefit the artistic scene in Indonesia."
        Traditionally, it was the royal palaces which cultivated artistic endeavours throughout Indonesia. With the demise of royalty a gap remains, despite government efforts to fulfill this role. Four Seasons Resort Bali strives to help fill that gap, a splendid opportunity to enrich the cultural experiences of the island's visitors and to promote intercultural awareness while positively influencing the arts.
        "We actively seek promising Balinese and Indonesian artists, providing them with a venue to exhibit work and make direct contact with a wider international market," says Arini. "While we emphasize helping young and little known artists, we also serve better known ones, foreigners whose work has been inspired by Bali and traditional arts, both antique and contemporary. Publishing high-quality catalogues provides the artists with additional tools to further their careers," she adds.
        The Gallery is now the venue for the resort's weekly guest cocktail party. "This winds up as an opportunity to educate the guests on a one-one-one basis, even if they don't like the particular works which are on exhibit," says Rowe. And, it certainly takes tedium out of the cocktail hour for management staff, giving them instant conversation starters.
        Exhibit openings have become sought after local social event, attracting Bali residents and art lovers from throughout Indonesia and beyond.  Most art purchases at Ganesha Gallery are by foreign guests. "These are celebrities, CEOs and collectors from around the world," says Rowe. "Pieces we exhibit wind up in Tel Aviv, Los Angeles, New York and Wiesbaden, in corporate offices and private collections." Indonesian collectors and galleries have snapped up works from international artists such as Yuri Gorbachev.
               An exhibition by 84-year-old Bali artist Ida Bagus Nyoman Rai was among the most satisfying events for Rowe. The show opened with a silent auction of the artist's works. A trust fund was established from the proceeds to support the artist in his modest lifestyle and to  paint and reroof the artist's simple home. Four Seasons Resort staff volunteered their time to clean improve Rai's home surroundings.

 
LIFE GOES ON IN PARADISE :  BALI BY BIKE - BY DEBE CAMPBELL
        If you're like me, spending 150 minutes impaled on a seat one fifth the size of my backside, pedalling 25 kilometres across hill and dell, is not my idea of fun. But, bicycling in Bali-I have discovered- is a scenic pleasure that, I have to admit, really is a blast.
        Cast aside any trepidation. This trip is not about climbing mountains, it's not a sports endurance test nor a Tour de France trial. It is about seeing the Balinese countryside up close and personal, in a uniquely intimate way. It's about taking the wheel in a very different sense to peek into village and farm life, absorbing the aura of centuries-old rice fields. It's a chance to soak up the scents of the earth, the warmth of the sun and to breathe fresh air.
        There are three companies in Bali offering cycling tours. I chose Adventure Tours and boarded their door-to-door shuttle bus, with reluctance, at 9 am for the northbound journey to the river-side reception  centre where I met my cycle-mates for the day. We ferried still further up the gentle gradation of Bali's interiors, northwest of Ubud, to the tiny village of Glogor. Actually, we weren't in any village I could find on a map, but rather at a crossroads which seemed in the middle of nowhere.
        There, a truckload of bicycles awaited up. Just your ordinary seven-speed bicycle, not unlike the one I have at home. Except that one rarely gets ridden. Our bicycle seats were quickly adjusted to leg lengths and bottles of cold water tucked into our  bottle holder. After a briefing on working the gears, the four of us set off with a sigh and our trusty guide Made. Wouldn't you know it, it was an uphill stretch.
        Not to worry. It was a short stretch, just enough to warm up the old leg muscles. And then, thank goodness, it was downhill almost the rest of the way. Almost.
        Our journey took us screaming down wonderful slopes and spinning around curves over rivers, winding through farm fields and past villages. The breeze whipping past us kept me fresh and cool.
        One of the first and largest villages we encountered was stacked on a steep slope, fortunately downhill. Neat, densely packed homes with corrugated tin rooftops hugged high along  sharp zig zags in the road. The villagers peered down upon us as they went quietly about their daily chores. Shy children leaned out from doorways, venturing a wave or the inevitable "hallo mister!". An occasional mangy mongrel dog made a bold half-hearted attempt to bark and chase at flashing feet, but they were never a genuine threat.
        Beyond the village were picture postcard varieties of verdant, green rice terraces. It was difficult to keep eyes to the road for marvelling at this serene landscape that remains unchanged by time. Deep valleys sliced in staircase fashion by some ancient farmer, tenderly tended by his descendants today. Chapters of history are silently etched out there.
        We cruised onward, barely peddling  until we broached a wide, flat plane. It was a startling contrast to the rice valleys. For here, the land had quickly changed to dry soil supporting peanut crops. And a harvest was in full swing. From here onward the weather began to warm, and off came the T-shirts.
        Still further, beyond another small village, there was a short, steep climb. We tackled the hill with a vengeance until one heavy push by a rather tall and large pedaller broke a bicycle chain. No worries, said guide Made. A quick seat adjustment and a swap and the rider was back in business. Made gave new meaning to "push bike" as he dangled his feet on the ground, pushing the broken bike along. With little effort, he kept stride with us unimpaired bikers, underscoring the angle of our descent.
        We felt we had just hit our stride when we returned to the Adventure Reception Centre, a full 17 km and one hour into our venture. But, this was the lunch stop, so we acquiesced and pulled in for our picnic baskets of sandwiches, fried chicken, fresh green salad, fruit, juice and more water.  Here we were joined by the second half of our group-six young men who had brought their own bikes. They had covered the same 17 km we had but in about 15 minutes. These guys were serious.
        Back on my bike for the final 8 km, I felt I could easily go back and start all over again. Wrong. The temperature and terrain from this point had changed. Gone were the open roads, fields and highland breezes. We now travelled down lanes closed in by residential walls. We still encountered no motor traffic to speak but we had lost the appealing landscape. A different chapter of life still carried on around us and we watched it speed past.
        Gentle upward incline and the battle of the gears kept me struggling this last stretch. A quick coast down to a fishing tank and public baths made a good place to stop and gain strength for a steep and long uphill climb to Sangeh Monkey Forest. About this time, I was glad I hadn't returned to the start point, as my energy began to wane. Through the village of Sangeh, across a small artery road and finally we were at the terminus. Parking the bikes we strolled across to the gates of the 17th century Pura Bukit Sari temple.
        This is home of the descendants of monkey god Hanoman's simian troops. Legend has it that they fell off of Mount Mahameru and landed here when trying to crush the evil demon king Rawana. Once a fan of monkeys, my days in Bali have left me with bitten fingers and stolen sunglasses, so I was not looking forward to yet another ape encounter. However the Sangeh monkeys, sated by the handouts from many tourists, were mild-mannered this day. Other than benignly investigating a few shirt pockets, and graciously accepting peanuts and fried tapioca chips, they were obese but charming. Especially the wrinkly one-week-old clinging to his mother.
        Too soon, it was all over. We pedalled the short distance to the truck where out bikes were loaded, bid our goodbyes and headed southward to our respective lodgings. For something I had set out determined to hate, I already have found myself recommending to others and encouraging visitors to try. I'll even go along for the ride!

 
SPICE ISLAND CRUISES DECLARED AMONG THE WORLD'S SAFEST
        Bali-based Spice Island Cruises is among the only Indonesian shipping Companies awarded the International Safety Management (ISM) certificate, under the International Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS).
        In surveying Spice Island Cruises for compliance with the International Safe Management codes, Lloyd's Register commended the Bali-based cruise Company:
        "A high level of commitment and safety awareness was shown by shore-based management, key personnel and ship's staff who were interviewed during the audit. Because of the satisfactory audit, Lloyd's Register of Shipping issued a "Document of Compliance" (DOC) for Spice Island's shore management and a "Safe Management Certificate" (SMC) for the Company's ship the MV OCEANIC ODYSSEY.
        Spice Island Cruises operates the 120-passenger MV OCEANIC ODYSSEY on 3 and 4 night cruise programs from Bali to Sumbawa, Lombok and the Komodo National Park - home of the world largest monitor lizards. The MV OCEANIC ODYSSEY was formerly operated as the OCEANIC GRACE by the Japanese cruise operator, SHOWA Lines.
J.M. Daniels
Editor/ Vice Chairman PATA Bali Chapter
 
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Bali Update #592
January 14, 2008

Bali Update #591
January 07, 2008

Bali Update #590
December 31, 2007

Bali Update #589
December 24, 2007

Bali Update #588
December 17, 2007

Bali Update #587
December 10, 2007

Bali Update #586
December 03, 2007

Bali Update #585
November 26, 2007

Bali Update #584
November 19, 2007

Bali Update #583
November 12, 2007

Bali Update #582
November 05, 2007

Bali Update #581
October 29, 2007

Bali Update #580
October 22, 2007

Bali Update #579
October 15, 2007

Bali Update #578
October 08, 2007

Bali Update #577
October 01, 2007

Bali Update #576
September 24, 2007

Bali Update #575
September 17, 2007

Bali Update #574
September 10, 2007

Bali Update #573
September 03, 2007

Bali Update #572
August 27, 2007

Bali Update #571
August 20, 2007

Bali Update #570
August 13, 2007

Bali Update #569
August 06, 2007

Bali Update #568
July 30, 2007

Bali Update #567
July 23, 2007

Bali Update #566
July 16, 2007

Bali Update #565
July 09, 2007

Bali Update #564
July 02, 2007

Bali Update #563
June 25, 2007

Bali Update #562
June 18, 2007

Bali Update #561
June 11, 2007

Bali Update #560
June 04, 2007

Bali Update #559
May 28, 2007

Bali Update #558
May 21, 2007

Bali Update #557
May 14, 2007

Bali Update #556
May 07, 2007

Bali Update #555
April 30, 2007

Bali Update #554
April 23, 2007

Bali Update #553
April 16, 2007

Bali Update #552
April 09, 2007

Bali Update #551
April 02, 2007

Bali Update #550
March 26, 2007

Bali Update #549
March 19, 2007

Bali Update #548
March 12, 2007

Bali Update #547
March 05, 2007

Bali Update #546
February 26, 2007

Bali Update #545
February 19, 2007

Bali Update #544
February 12, 2007

Bali Update #543
February 05, 2007

Bali Update #542
January 29, 2007

Bali Update #541
January 22, 2007

Bali Update #540
January 15, 2007

Bali Update #539
January 08, 2007

Bali Update #538
January 01, 2007

Bali Update #537
December 25, 2006

Bali Update #536
December 18, 2006

Bali Update #535
December 11, 2006

Bali Update #534
December 04, 2006

Bali Update #533
November 27, 2006

Bali Update #532
November 20, 2006

Bali Update #531
November 13, 2006

Bali Update #530
November 06, 2006

Bali Update #529
October 30, 2006

Bali Update #528
October 23, 2006

Bali Update #527
October 16, 2006

Bali Update #526
October 9, 2006

Bali Update #525
October 2, 2006

Bali Update #524
September 04, 2006

Bali Update #523
September 04, 2006

Bali Update #522
September 04, 2006

Bali Update #521
September 04, 2006

Bali Update #520
August 28, 2006

Bali Update #519
August 21, 2006

Bali Update #518
August 14, 2006

Bali Update #517
August 07, 2006

Bali Update #516
July 31, 2006

Bali Update #515
July 24, 2006

Bali Update #514
July 17, 2006

Bali Update #513
July 10, 2006

Bali Update #512
July 03, 2006

Bali Update #511
June 26, 2006

Bali Update #510
June 19, 2006

Bali Update #509
June 12, 2006

Bali Update #508
June 05, 2006

Bali Update #507
May 29, 2006

Bali Update #506
May 22, 2006

Bali Update #505
May 15, 2006

Bali Update #504
May 08, 2006

Bali Update #503
May 01, 2006

Bali Update #502
April 24, 2006

Bali Update #501
April 17, 2006