BALI UPDATE #276 - 31 December 2001

U.S. Envoy Upbeat on Safety of Travel to Indonesia

New U.S. Envoy Suggests State Department Warnings Will Soon Ease.

Recent comments by U.S.A. Ambassador Ralph L. Boyce may herald an easing of the current U.S. State Department travel warnings early in 2002.

Speaking in an interview published in the Sunday, 23 December, 2001, edition of the Indonesian-language daily Kompas, Ambassador Boyce answered questions from a team of 3 Indonesian journalists. Excerpts from that interview are included below:

The experience of your predecessor suggests that being the U.S. Ambassador is not an easy task. (Interviewer's note: Boyce's predecessor, Ambassador Gelbard, was often criticized for interference in Indonesia's domestic affairs.)

Being an American U.S. Ambassador anywhere right now is not an easy task due to the high expectations placed upon you and, occasionally, the disaffection with the fact that the U.S.A. is currently so dominant on the world stage - be it in economic terms, culturally, and, frankly, in terms of power. We are the sole remaining superpower. This fact does not always make people happy. As a result, the American Ambassador has become the personification of what people feel is either good or bad about America. So, no matter where one serves, being the American ambassador today is a challenging job.

The Indonesian posting is an important one. To cite one example, last week all the American ambassadors in Asia, 25 of them, and leaders from Washington, D.C. met in Hawaii. There were three panels held at that meeting dealing with China, Japan and Indonesia. These were the three people everyone wanted to hear.

Why Indonesia?

Because Indonesia represents the 4th largest country in the world destined to become a large nation having experienced the democratic process of - in the polite terms of diplomatic parlance - moving from a non-transparent economy to a modern, democratic economy; people struggling from a very basic level and succeeding to achieve remarkable success ...

Can you explain what you mean when you say Indonesia must cooperate in fighting international terrorism?

I know the Indonesian people saw what happened in New York, Washington, and Pennsylvania on September 11. This was sickening - to, with a very few exceptions - all Indonesians - Muslims, Christians, Buddhists, Hindus or any other group and was an act not connected with any religion. This was an act of barbarity. It cannot be defended. The Indonesian people and the people of the U.S. share the same view of the events of September 11.

... Terrorism must be eliminated; action must be taken. This is in accordance with the global coalition. Of course, there were some points of disagreement. In the beginning, when we had just begun the Afghanistan campaign, there were demonstrations against the bombing. There were also those who disagreed with the idea of a superpower supervising women and children in Pakistan refugee camps.

It was indeed very difficult when I first arrived in Jakarta, last October. At that time, I said we can agree to disagree. Friends often don't agree, that does not mean their friendship has ended. I think the view (about the Afghanistan campaign) has already changed.

I think the people now see that the Northern Alliance is much more Islamic than the Taliban. I say much more "Islamic" than the Taliban because of the information which has emerged regarding how the Taliban treated the women of Afghanistan, their own people. This kind of information can now be known, which means that freedom now exists.

I think the Indonesian people have now read this type of information, in particular regarding the behavior of the Taliban, and at the very least now know how they allowed their country to be hijacked by the Al-Qaeda. That is why I believe the wave of protests have stopped. This is understandable, isn't it?

How about the anti-American feeling reported in Indonesia recently?

I never accepted the idea that there were widespread anti-American feelings in Indonesia. This is an impression encountered not only in the U.S.A., but elsewhere in the world. I believe this occurred because of the strength of the media. When I arrived here there was a feeling of resentment among the Indonesians at being depicted as a living in violent country and that every night on CNN they saw barbed wire and water cannons (associated with their country). I think people hated this image ...

I began with reluctance to accept the concept that anti-Americanism sentiments existed in Indonesia. I believe that there is no widespread feeling of opposition to America in Indonesia.

Has the situation improved? - Clearly, the situation outside the Embassy is calmer; there is no more barbed wire. There are no more water canons, no more trucks, and most importantly - there are no more demonstrations. In this regard, the situation has improved.

Does this mean there's no problem visiting Indonesia? What about the travel warning (for Indonesia) that has been issued by the U.S. State Department?

I think that Americans should feel themselves free to come to Indonesia providing they use good judgment. If you come as tourists, perhaps you should avoid Ambon and Banda Aceh. I feel there should not be a travel advisory against travel to all of Indonesia, as though the situation was the same from Banda Aceh to Papua.

We have already changed our travel advisory. Previously we reminded Americans to not come to Indonesia, I think now we suggest people avoid unnecessary travel to Indonesia. Frankly, in my opinion, the advisory should say when you come to Indonesia use good judgment. Don't go to places that are having problems. I think this is the direction in which we are heading. In the New Year I believe that this will be the recommendation given by the U.S. Department of State.

More information: Original Text of Ambassador Boyce Interview

Come Blow Your 'Terompet'

Now Appearing on a Corner Near You: Bali's New Year's 'Terompet' Salesmen.

In the weeks leading up to New Year's Eve, Bali's streets are home to ubiquitous salesmen, standing besides racks full of paper and foil "terompet-terompet," offering a wide selection of colorful noisemakers to lend to the tradition cacophony accompanying the transition to 2002.

Viewed as almost a compulsory accessory for any Indonesian New Year's reveler, these colorful trumpets are made from recycled paper and colored foil in central Java and, together with the products of a sister-industry in silly party hats, are shipped nation-wide in time for the festive season. Ranging in size from small horns suitable for children to paper versions of an Alpine flugelhorn, these instruments of merry-making manage to transform normally reserved and dignified people on New Year's Eve into mindless dolts, seemingly content to toot-toot-toot for hours until eventually succumbing to fatigue or respiratory failure.

Smart shoppers know to buy their 'terompet' early.

Entrepreneurial street hawkers buy their stock for prices ranging from Rp. 500 to Rp. 1,000 each (US$ 0.05 to US$ 0.10), selling them for twice to three times that investment on local street sides. Those prices will again double or even triple come 31 December when stocks begin to diminish and demand gets the upper hand on supply.

With New Year's Eve at hand, we suggest you don't delay in buying your 'terompet,' accepting that it's better to look silly than out of place.

Happy New Year 2002 from Bali Update and balidiscovery.com ... toot ... toot ... toot ... toot

Bali - An Island of Excellent Tastes

Bali Gets Top Rankings in Travel & Leisure Poll of Best Food.

The November 2001 edition of Travel & Leisure magazine has published its readers' poll of the world's best food. As anyone who has visited the island of Bali might expect, our island ranked high in the world-wide division and in Asia.

The Top Hotels for Food Overall

Bali's Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay ranked 3^rd among all hotels worldwide after the top-ranked Inn at Little Washington in Washington, Virginia and the 2^nd place Mansion on Turtle Creek in Dallas, Texas.

The Top Hotels for Food in Asia

Bali netted two of the top five ranks of Asia's best hotels for food. 1^st place was awarded to the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay; 2^nd place to the Four Seasons Hotel, Singapore; 3^rd place The Oriental, Bangkok; 4^th place the Ritz Carlton, Bali; and 5^th The Peninsula, Hong Kong.

Receiving special mention in Travel & Leisure's coverage was the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay's Taman Wantilan dining room and the Resort's Executive Chef Marc Miron. The readers heaped special praise on the Wantilan's signature dish of crisp lobster spring rolls with two sauces and their Balinese spiced grilled snapper in banana leaf.

With one hotel ranked as number three in the world for food and two in Asia's top five - visiting the island of Bali is definitely a matter of good taste.

More information: Travel & Leisure Good Food Report

Enter the Euro

Some Local Confusion Accompanies Europe's Introduction of the Euro.

While banks across Europe are spending millions acclimating their customers to the introduction of the Euro as the official currency, apparently Bank Indonesia's approach is less subtle and substantially more abrupt.

Reportedly, local banks, effective January 01, 2002, will no longer accept any of the European currencies being supplanted by the Euro. This has caused some hotels in Bali to advise that they, in turn, will also be refusing the following currencies beginning on that date:

Deutsche Mark, Dutch Guilders, French Francs, Italian Lira, Belgian Francs, Finnish Markka, Luxembourg Francs, Spanish Pesetas, Portuguese Escudos, Austrian Schillings, Irish Punts, and Greek Drachmae.

Visitors to Bali in 2002 would be well advised to bring U.S. Dollars, Euros or other world currencies not included in the proscribed list.

Celebrating Another Year as a Team

Bali Discovery Tours Staff and Families Gather at Red Rice Restaurant in Ubud.

On Sunday, December 30, 2001, forty Bali Discovery Tours staff members and their family gathered for a year-end lunch at Ubud's popular Red Rice Warung. Senior management of the company together with operational staff, drivers, secretaries and support staff brought their family to Sayan Ridge to enjoy a lavish Indonesian buffet at the restaurant, located mid-way between the Four Seasons Resort at Sayan and the Amandari Resort.

Bali Discovery Tours' Managing Director, Mr. Arie Sukirno thanked the staff for their continuing dedication and support in a year that saw dramatic increase in the company's business, despite the events of September 11. The continued development of the Company's e-commerce in collaboration with the weekly publication of the Bali Update, sent to over 10,000 readers each week, and the groundbreaking publication of Bali's first Meetings, Incentive, Conference and Exhibition Guide Book - have combined to firmly establish BDT's position as a leading player in destination and event management in Bali.

More information: Photographs from Our Staff Get-Together

Fire At Hotel Istana Rama

Late Night Fire Damages Kitchen and Restaurant at Kuta's Hotel Istana Rama. No Injuries Suffered by Guests or Staff as Hotel Continues to Operate.

A late night fire on Saturday, December 29, 2001, destroyed the restaurant and kitchen of the Hotel Istana Rama on Bali's Kuta Beach.

The fire, which started sometime after 1 a.m. was contained to the kitchen and restaurant area of the hotel, which were completely destroyed. The fire did not spread to the adjoining lobby area. Although running near 100% occupancy during the holiday season, no injuries to guests or staff occurred as a result of the fire.

Mr. Philip Hill, General Manager of the Hotel, confirmed to Bali Update that alternative dining arrangements are being made for the hotel's guests and the property continues to operate. Contractors were brought to the hotel on the morning immediately after the fire to commence design work for the damaged area's reconstruction that the owners are optimistic can be completed in 6 weeks.

Guest Editorial: The Bells Are Ringing

Questbay Consulting's CEO, Graham Hornel, Urges Bali to Address and Rectify Tourism Capacity Issues Before It's Too Late.

Now that Christmas is over and School Leavers know their final results, the traditional exodus of Australians heading again to Bali is beginning. Aussie accents will be omnipresent throughout January and early February – and, following a less-than-good year for Bali's tourism, the inflow of Australian Dollars will hopefully launch 2002 more positively.

But only in March will it be evident if as many Australians headed north as in 2001 or in earlier years and if, indeed, beautiful Bali is still a favorite holiday destination "Down Under" in an increasingly competitive travel arena.

Based on what I have read in both the trade and consumer media throughout 2001, on remarks made by the sellers and the buyers of travel on both sides of Australia, on comments made on radio talkback shows in Western Australia, plus my own observations over the last few years - I have serious doubts.

Based also on the balanced, informative and realistic coverage that I have read in 'Bali Update' in recent months, I do have good reason for such concerns.

For those of us directly involved in the industry, key words like planning, sustainability and capacity ring a loud bell – usually with a negative tone - in the context of the growth of Bali as a tourism destination. However, when one hears comments like, "too crowded," "terrible traffic," "not clean," "disorganised" and "no longer pleasant" from those who now have many choices of travel destinations that are also close to Australia, then I suggest that the warning bells are ringing very loudly for Bali.

That old adage about for whom the bell tolls – and tolls loudly – apply more and more to Bali. A similar adage of Scottish origin about there being none so blind as those who will not see, sadly appears to be the reality amongst those who could – indeed should – take steps to ensure the long-term viability of Bali as a tourism destination.

'Bali Update' has, in its role as a responsible publication, carried a number of very pertinent and even alarming messages about the decline of Bali's tourism during 2001 – and most of these from people with strong Bali connections, such as Minister Ardika, Mr. I Gde Wiratha and Dr. Nyoman Erawan. On my regular visits to Jakarta this year, I have seen similar concerns expressed in articles in leading national newspapers.

Based on this media coverage alone and even before this particular Perth-based industry commentator adds his words of caution, it can be stated with conviction that there is, in every way, a major and an increasingly serious Tourism Carrying Capacity (issue) facing Bali – and the word is, as they say, well and truly out.

It perhaps is more acceptable if one begins a New Year with words that are kinder and gentler. Certainly, it appears that the majority of the decision-makers would appear to prefer that – just as they would go to considerable lengths to maintain the pretence that all is well and that the proverbial Bali Golden Goose will continue to lay enough eggs for all to feed on for many, many years to come.

Not kind and certainly not gentle in word or in supporting thought, but please let me add my warning message to the increasing number that too many are failing to heed:

There urgently needs to be a realistic audit and review of all key logistics pertaining to Bali's carrying capacity for tourism, plus the introduction of a genuine commitment at all levels to actively address and make necessary changes, including legislation.

If this does not happen within the next 18 to 24 months, I must join the increasing number in forecasting an even more rapid decline in the true quality of the Bali Visitor Experience and the inevitable and extremely negative impact on the Balinese people. It is they who are the ultimate beneficiaries, or the ultimate victims, of the appalling neglect and myopia of those who, as this decline has set in, have sat and watched and have profited.

Ask not for whom the Decline Bells toll, Bali – they toll for you, unless major changes take place, very, very soon.

Graham Hornel is CEO of the International Tourism Consultancy - The Questbay Group, a former PATA Staff Director, and the founding Secretary General of the Indian Ocean Tourism Organisation (IOTO).

More information: Visit the Questbay Website

'Shoot to Kill' Order for Jalak Bird Poachers

Fed Up with Poachers of Bali's Endangered 'Jalak Putih' Birds, Governor Issues Order that Could Make Poacher Soon Extinct.

At a ceremony on Wednesday, December 26, 2001, in which he released 5 endangered Jalak Putih or Leocopsar Rothschild at the Taman Nasional Bali Barat nature preserve, Bali's Governor, Dewa Made Beratha, ordered officials to not hesitate to shoot-on-site anyone caught stealing the rare breed of bird found in a natural state only on Bali.

The current wild population of the Jalak Bali,popularly known as the Bali Starling, remains at only 6 birds, down from an estimated 109 birds in 1974. Larger breeding populations of the birds do exist, however, in zoos abroad.

The Governor, commenting on the black market price of between Rp. 15 - 20 million (US$1,500 - US$2,000) for the birds, reminded authorities not to be tempted by money to collude in acts that will cause the bird's extinction.

In a related incident suggesting perhaps a long-awaited crackdown on the illegal animal trade, 20 animals were seized in a raid by police at a private residence in Denpasar on Thursday, December 27. The police raid on the home of Arifin and Andre Heryanto on Jalan Kanda No. 8, Ngurah Rai, netted 8 peacocks, 5 Bali Starlings, a sea eagle, 2 cockatoo majors and 8 crown pigeons.

Despite the Governor's orders, apparently no shots were fired during the police seizure of the endangered species.

President Marks New Year in Bali

President Megawati Soekarnoputri Celebrates the New Year in Bali.

President Megawati Soekarnoputri, together with a group comprised of family and friends, arrived in Bali on Saturday, 29 December 2001 to celebrate the New Year.

After an initial night's stay at the Bali Inter.Continental Resort in Jimbaran, the Presidential entourage moved to the Istana Tampaksiring, northeast of Ubud and overlooking the Pura Tirta Empul. The Palace was built by Ibu Megawati's late-father, President Ir. Soekarno in the 1950's. During her visit to Bali, the President will celebrate the New Year and the birthday of her husband, Taufik Kiemas - both dates falling on 31 December 2001.

Prior to leaving for Bali, President Megawati pre-recorded her annual address to the Nation which will be broadcast nationwide on New Year's Eve.

The Presidential party is scheduled to fly back to Jakarta on Wednesday, January 2.

Police on Full Alert for New Year's Celebrations

Bali Police Introduce Measures to Handle Unusually High Influx of Domestic Visitors Over New Year.

In order to handle the extremely large number of domestic visitors during the current holiday period, Bali's police have introduced a high "Siaga I" state of alert together with other additional measures to ensure New Year's festivities pass without incident.

The Chief of Information for the Bali Provincial Police, AKBP Y. Suyatmo, was quick to underline that the introduction of a Siaga I status for the island should not be interpreted to mean the police have identified a specific threat to public safety but, rather, be seen as a state of the highest preparedness to handle the large crowds of revelers expected over the New Year's eve.

In order to anticipate the large crowds expected in the Kuta area of Bali the Police have introduced a total parking ban on Kuta streets, providing for centralized parking on Kuta's perimeter area. The access to Kuta and traffic flow have also been altered to ensure the traffic keeps moving, including:

+ Vehicles entering Kuta will have to take the airport road near the airport.

+ Traffic coming down Jalan Iman Bonjol will be diverted to the Dewa Ruci Monument and along the Bypass to enter Kuta via the Airport Road.

+ Vehicles exiting from the Kuta area will also be forced to follow a one-way traffic pattern along Jalan Raya Tuban to Jalan Pantai to Jalan Raya Seminyak to Pettitinget exiting past the Kerobokan Prison to Jalan Iman Bonjol.

+ One Way restriction to be imposed on the Kerobokan Prison Road. No travel in the direction of Seminyak with travel to be diverted to Gn. Soputan.

+ Jalan Seminyak will become a one-way street from Legian heading to Kerobokan.

+ Jalan Gn. Soputan will be closed to westbound traffic from Jalan Iman Bonjol.

Traffic has been unusually heavy over the Christmas period due to the large number of domestic vehicles visiting from Java. If the past week has been any indication, those bringing their cars to Kuta during the New Year celebrations should expect substantial delays.