BALI UPDATE #278 - 14 January 2002

Tourism Board Dissolved

Governor Formally Abolishes Bali Tourism Board.

The Chief of Tourism for the Province of Bali, Dr. Ir. Gde Pitana, M. Sc announced to the press and Public on Friday, January 11, 2002, that Bali's Governor Dewa Beratha has formally revoked his own decision made in May of 2000 that established the Bali Tourism Board (BTB).

In dissolving the BTB, which was charged with coordinating the promotion of Bali tourism, the Governor took the somewhat unusual step of asking that all components of the tourism community refrain from using BTB's name for any future forum or organization while, at the same time, inviting the island's tourism industry to establish any forum, organization or grouping that they desire in order to preserve the harmony between the various tourism sectors.

The official demise of the BTB is the culmination of a series of events which commenced with the recent resignation of the group's chairman, Mr. I Gusti Bagus Yudhara. Mr. Yudhara, left the organization after a barrage of criticism, primarily from the Chief of Bali's Hotel and Restaurant Association (PHRI) who felt the organization was unrepresentative of the stakeholders in Bali's tourism industry. The caretaker-Chairman of the BTB, who then assumed leadership of the group, Mr. Ir. Made Suryawan, launched into a acrimonious public debate in the local press with PHRI's Chairman, Gede Wiratha.

Apparently, with the BTB becoming politically "too hot to handle" and the focus of divisiveness within the ranks of Bali's tourism leadership, the Governor eventually took the decision to shut down the BTB.

Chinese New Year Specials for Bali

Bali Discovery Tours Offers Spectacular Special Rates for Chinese New Years in Bali. Check Out These Rates for Reason to Celebrate!

For the period 09 through 16 February 2002, Bali Discovery Tours is offering special rates to overseas visitors wishing to spend the Chinese New Year's Holidays in Bali.

Discovery Kartika Plaza

An Ocean Facing Room just US$ 71 per night. Normally US$ 180 plus 21% per night. A Savings of More than 67%.

Bali Dynasty

A Superior Room for US$ 53 per night. Regular Price US$ 160 plus 21% per night - Save more than 73%.

Kuta Paradiso

Deluxe Room for US$ 61.50 per night. Regular price US$ 140 plus 21% - save over 64%.

Lor In Saba Bai

A luxurious multi-story Garden Villa for US$ 82.50 per night. Published price of US$ 250 plus 21% - outstanding value while you save 73% by booking with balidiscovery.com.

Swiss BelHotel Bali Aga

Just US$ 41.50 per night, regularly US$ 178 plus 21% - a whopping 81% savings!

There's More Good News ...

+ Rates Valid for Single or Double.

+ 21% Government Tax and Service Charge already included.

+ BONUS - Full American Breakfast each Day.

+ BONUS - Free Transfers.

+ BONUS - Bali Discovery Tours Value Pack of Discounts on local tours and attractions during your stay.

Conditions apply ...

Special offer applies to new bookings only; minimum 2 night stay valid for bookings between 09-16 February 2002 (extensions available by application); supply is limited with rooms available on a first come first served basis.

More information: Chinese New Year Specials from balidiscovery.com

Merpati Flying Troubled Skies

Merpati Nusantara Appears to Be a Company in Deep Trouble.

Merpati Nusantara Airlines (MZ), a government-owned Indonesian domestic carrier, seems beset by problems at almost every front. As if the generally unfriendly skies of aviation worldwide and the intense competition in the increasingly open skies of Indonesia weren't enough to contend with, signs are that the Airline's Management may soon be replaced and the carrier's pilots are preparing to undertake a "go slow" action.

Current Board to Be Replaced

20 Lead workers from MZ recently appeared before an Indonesian Parliamentary Commission to complain to lawmakers about the way the carrier was managed. Claiming widespread mismanagement, during that hearing the pilots confirmed their intentions to strike or, at the very least, "go slow" if the Airline's Directors were not replaced.

Following that meeting the State Minister for State-Owned Enterprises sent a letter to the Company's Management calling for an urgent extraordinary meeting of shareholders, ostensibly for the purposes of changing MZ's Directors. Ferdinan Nainggolan, the Deputy of the Minister, confirmed this in comments made on Friday, January 11, 2002, where he stated, "if the changes (in the directors) were not soon made, the Company will collapse."

Current Director Respond

Meanwhile, MZ's Directors have objected strongly to being cast as the "fall guys" for the airline's many problems. Accepting that changes to the composition of the Board of Directors is always the owners' prerogative, the current Directors have launched a counter-attack in the local press vehemently rejecting any depiction of their performance as "poor."

MZ's President Director, Wahyu Hidayat insists the only fair evaluation of the present board's performance is a comparison with the track record of their predecessors. The current management has increased the size of the airline's armada from 23 to 35 aircraft and the losses in 1998, before the new board's appointment, totaled Rp. 660 billion, a figure reduced to Rp. 74 billion one year later under their management regime.

A Looming Showdown

Despite the promise of a Shareholder's meeting within the coming month and an almost certain change of leadership at the airline, an earlier showdown appears to be looming between the Airline's pilots and the current Directors. MZ's pilots have threatened a "slow-down" in the week commencing January 14, 2002, to drive home their desire for an urgent replacement of management. Original plans for a carrier-wide strike on January 14 have apparently been downgraded when MZ's lame-duck managers made it clear to the pilots that such an action would result in dismissals for those involved.

Entry # 2 - Bali Dream Holiday Contest

A Bali Update Reader from Sweden is this Week's Submission in the Contest to Win a Luxury Bali Holiday.

Susanne Blidborg, susanne.blidborg@fritidsresor.se, of Stockholm, Sweden is the second submission in the Bali Dream Holiday Contest.

Write before the end of April and you have a chance of winning 2 tickets on Singapore Airlines, 7 nights at the Fours Seasons Private Estates Bali at Jimbaran Bay, tours and transfers from Bali Discovery Tours, rafting and cycling excursions from Sobek, luxurious spa treatments from Mandara Spa, a helicopter tour from Air Bali, and Cooking Lessons from Bumbu Bali/Rumah Bali.

Here's Susanne Bildborg's entry:

Dreamholiday

The first sensation of island of the gods - the smell of champaka and frangipaniflowers.

The smiling ladies dressed in their nice batiks and embroidered blouses.

The flowers, the trees and the warm blue ocean, the culture and the myths! Truly paradise on earth!

After arrival you should head straight for Ubud and indulge yourself in massage, spas, sights and sounds at the market, go for bird walking and rafting at daytime. In the evening go for shopping at the nice boutique shops in the center and eat typical Balinese and Indonesian specialities at beautiful establishments as the Dirty Ducks Diner.

To explore the islands of the Gods is a must, see the small picturesque villages around Ubud and up north, Bedugul Botanical gardens, the market and the mysterious and beautiful Pura Ulun Danu with a relaxing canoe trip on the lake Beratan.

Onwards to Singaraja you should take a right turn along the coast before seeing Singaraja, and first visit the villages still making gamelan instruments, see their fascinating old temples with exquisite carvings and old traditions. After this return to Singaraja to see the sights of the city, its museums and the old harbour.

Lovina beach and a dolphin safari tour, relax at a beach resort and enjoy the black sandy beach and the sunset - maybe with a glass of Hatten wine.

Turn east to the wild north coast and national parks.

Interesting nature walks in Bali Barat National Park and a snorkeling/diving tour of Menjangan gives a good picture on how nature once was unspoilt. On the way down south go in the direction of Pupuan and the famous rice paddies in perfectly built terraces.

On the way west visit the handicraft villages of Mas and Celuk, see the bursting markets of the area. See the old court and quartiers of Klungkung and make a relaxing stop at Candi Dasa. Tenganan weaving village and the sights from Iseh on the way from Tenganan to Besakih temple. Get entranced by the rituals and the atmosphere. Enjoy the games and traditions in one of the Puras that welcomes guests for dinner arrangements.

After a roundtrip like this the perfect place to unwind is Lembongan Island at one of its resorts, three or four nights.

Before leaving on the late flights back to your country - do not miss the sandy and delicious seafood dinners at Jimbaran beach when the sun is setting!

More information: How to Enter the Bali Dream Holiday Contest

Fewer Japanese Traveling

Figures Show Once Champion Globetrotting Japanese Travelers Now Staying Close to Home.

Figures released by the Japanese Tourist Organization indicate a dramatic downturn in Japanese outbound travel following 911 .

Figures for November 2001 show a more than 41% decrease in travel ex-Japan when compared to the same month just one year earlier. In total, only 890,000 Japanese took an overseas trip last November.

With the Japanese representing one of Indonesia's largest source of tourists, concerns in the local industry are that the situation may worsen. And there is little sign that the Japanese 'fear of flying' is diminishing, a situation further complicated by a national economy in serious trouble and the Yen trading at three year lows. Travel abroad for the average Japanese has suddenly become both expensive and unattractive.

Suspicions that the Japanese are electing to stay home were further strengthened by a lackluster performance in outbound travel from Japan over the traditionally peak Christmas and New Year's Period. During the period December 22 through January 6, Japanese outbound travel dropped 15.8 percent.

Following the tragedy of September 11, Bali hotels and tour operators saw group travel ex Japan suddenly evaporated, compensated only slightly by a modest increase in individual travelers from Japan as people switched their holidays from Hawaii and the U.S. mainland to Southeast Asian destinations, such as Bali.

Download a Smile!

Indonesia's Latest Publicity Campaign Now Playing on a Computer Near You.

The Indonesian Government in an effort to rekindle dwindling tourism arrivals have launched an estimated US$ 9 million campaign of television spots now playing on CNN and the BBC.

The campaign dubbed My Indonesia: Just a Smile Away features the Indonesian 11-year-old singing sensation Sherena backed by a full symphony orchestra as she sings against breathtaking settings across the Indonesian archipelago.

In order to help spread this message for those who may have missed the commercial, the innovative husband and wife team of Agoes Mulyadi and Melina Caruso at the Bali-based tourism portal Bali Paradise Online, have generously made the musical themes and advertisements available for download from their streaming video site.

Now you can download a smile on a computer near you via the link below.

More information: My Indonesia: Just a Smile Away

Bali on The Run

There's Still Time to Register for the Bali International Marathon April 7, 2002.

The 4^th Karangasem Bali International Marathon 2002 will be held along Bali's scenic east coast on Sunday, April 7, 2002.

Hundreds of Indonesian and visiting international runners will gather before sunrise to participate in a full marathon of 42 kilometers, a half-marathon of 21 kilometers, and a short course of 10 kilometers. Trophies, medals and cash prizes for the top local runners with the best times overall in each division. Special awards are also available for age divisions including recognition for the youngest and oldest runners participating in the marathon.

International participants will also be treated to a program of inclusive pre and post marathon meals.

A large American contingent of runners is expected, led by veteran marathoners Kurt Bodmer and Kathy Loper who have constructed attractive marathon packages available ex-USA including airfare, hotels, tours and a stopover in Hong Kong.

Those wishing to join the run but not traveling from the U.S.A. can contact Bali Discovery Tours at info@balidiscovery.com.

More information: Bali Marathon with Kathy Loper Events

A Bridge Too High?

Suggestions to Ease Bali's Traffic Congestion with Overpass Roads at Odds with Local Religious Beliefs.

The flood of domestic visitors in Bali over the just completed Christmas and New Year's Holidays emphasized, once again, the limited carrying capacity of the island's highway infrastructure. Grid lock and bottlenecks became commonplace, particularly in the areas leading into the Kuta and Tuban areas of the island as thousands of cars driven by visitors from Java crowded the streets.

Realizing traffic jams are bad for business with a negative impact on the island's appeal as a tourism destination, local pundits have been quick to parade out proposed remedies for Bali's traffic woes, including tramways and suspended highways and overpasses.

Last week, treading carefully while he surveyed the public's mood, Bali's Governor Drs. Dewa Made Beratha declared that Bali needs overpass highways to reduce traffic jams providing such a solution met with the public's approval.

Why the Hesitation?

The Governor's reluctance to quickly commit to what appears superficially to be such a ready solution to local traffic problems may seem, at first, difficult to comprehend.

On closer examination, however, you'll notice that Bali is virtually free of pedestrian overpasses, highway tunnels or other conveniences that cause people to physically pass below or over each other. In fact, the need to extend the runway length at Bali's international airport has long been at an impasse for to do so would almost definitely require the construction of an underground traffic tunnel below the airport to ensure the island stays connected with the entire Nusa Dua Peninsula.

So, you ask, why not go ahead and build the tunnel? Therein lies the crux of yet another confrontation between deeply held local cultural values and the onslaught of modern society.

On the island of Bali with its Bali-Hindu view of the world, the cosmos, religious temples, family compounds and even the human body are deemed to be composed of three distinct parts with each assigned its place in a sacred hierarchy. In the case of the human body, the head is designated the most sacrosanct.

Fred Esieman, Jr. the respected observer of Balinese life and culture in his book Bali Sekala & Niskala: Volume I, (Periplus, Hong Kong, 1990), explained:

"A waitress at a tourist restaurant apologizes before putting a flower behind your ear, as does the barber before he begins his work. You never see a Balinese ruffle up a child's hair in greeting, as is so common in the West. Holy offerings are invariably carried on the head, as is holy water. Conversely the feet are dirty, being in contact with the earth and antipodal to the head. Pointing with the foot or stepping over an offering or other sacred object is a dreadful breach of etiquette. For an ordinary person to position himself at a higher elevation that a high priest or a holy object such as a temporary residence of a god or deified ancestor, is not only rude, but sacrilegious. When a sacred object, such as the mythic Barong, is present the Balinese audience sits on the ground. Many Balinese will not enter a two-story building, lest something impure be located over their heads."

And therein lies part of the cultural impediment to constructing tunnels and suspended highways and bridges in Bali. While there is a grudging acceptance that airplanes must fly overhead, many feel a primal reluctance to erect anything that is literally connected to the Island of the Gods that might cause repeated daily transgressions of the strict division between the religious and the profane.

Will the pressures of traffic and modernity cause the Balinese to make yet another accommodation to their traditional view of the world?

That's a bridge we'll have to cross, errh ... go under ... when we come to it.

Stay tuned.

BaliEats.com 'Digests' 2001

BaliEats.com - the Restaurant Guide to Bali Produced in its Monthly Newsletter an End-of-Year Review of Bali's Restaurants Scene. Our Edited Version of Their 'Wrap for 2001'.

One of the most pleasing aspects of dining in Bali, despite these troubled times, is the explosion on the local restaurant scene. Most of the new places are great! Good quality value-for-money restaurants with professional kitchens, at almost every price level.

TANAH LOT

The Le Meridien, nestled in the folds of the Greg Norman designed golf course, offers the Cendana restaurant with icy cold, yet fiery hot, Chilli Crab Gazpacho and the elegant Nirwana for fine dining at night.

At Canggu, the Hotel Tugu is a step back in time serving regional food from Java and Bali. No other Nasi Campur will quite compare.

KUTA - LEGIAN -KEROBOKAN

Kerobokan, is where it all started with La Luciolla. The beach set still enjoy its Mediterranean snacks and meals whilst the incomparable Kafe Warisan remains the place for romantic French dinners. Now everyone wants to get into the act! First, it was the Living Room (herb and pepper crusted chilled tuna or fragrant Vietnamese rice paper rolls), then the up market Ku de Ta. How do you select between their Asian Spiced Duck and the de-boned, stuffed Quails?

The reasonably-priced Chitralada came on the scene with magic delights of S.E. Asia (prawn cakes and a luscious Roast Duck in Thai Red Curry). We were confronted with the cheeky little upstart, the Mykonos Taverna, selling wholesome home-cooked style Greek food at ridiculously cheap prices. Simple things, like an incredibly tender Calamari Skaras and the big tasty Keftes Tiganitos (oven-baked meat balls).

Now another, flash newcomer with a strange name has arrived. Hu'u's food is just about as different as their name. How about Roasted Water Chestnuts, with bacon and brown sugar?

In Seminyak, The Villa's La Maison, French wine bar and restaurant offers a variety of plates of Saucissons et Fromages (dry sausages and cheeses) that go perfectly with a good glass of red wine, or you can enjoy a hearty casserole (La Daube de Boeuf de ma Tante Rose).

On the road to Gado-Gado - a classy seaside Mediterranean restaurant, the fascinating Antique arrived with its innovative Asian cuisine (great Thai prawn cakes and a luscious Javanese Ayam Bumbu Rujak). The Q Bar,almost next door, gave up its own catering to Zorro, a new snack bar up on Jln. Seminyak. Across the road the Gateway of India is churning out those sensational Kathirolls and delicately spiced curries like Keema Mattar or Kadai Chicken. The original Kin Khao has closed but now a new, swankier, version has opened down near the late night Café Luna.

Legian and Kuta have seen minor changes. Delight Café never seemed to work, but in it's new livery as R.H.U.M., is doing better. Across the road, the little Lo's Warung caters for those longing for German/Austrian/Swiss food. Their pork meatloaf and smoked chicken breasts are two of the best value dishes in Bali. The old F.J.'s disappeared and we now have 'Take' for great Japanese robatyaki, and another branch of Kin Khao almost next door. At the edge of Kuta, a good value Mediterranean restaurant, The Balcony a vast improvement on what else was previously available. Try their giant-sized brochettes or rosemary roasted chicken. Around on the beach is the stylish Italian Papa's Café (tempting Fetta di Salmone Affumicato, slices of smoked salmon draped over disks of crisp potato rosti.)

Tuban has many new places due to the final acceptance of the enormous Kuta Square. The Tuban area has the Greek Daddy's, another Kin Khao, Copa Café, the Mexican Chi-Chi's, an up market Japanese Fukutaro at the Sol Legian Hotel and a budget version at 'Yakiniku' and 'Shabu-Shabu'. A real Balinese restaurant, Fuku Mimpi, presents a great opportunity for tourists to try this delicate food. A great example of mid-eastern food at The Lebanon Restaurant - (wonderful Chickpeas Falafel and Kebbeh Akras, minced beef with cracked wheat and onions).

JIMBARAN & NUSA DUA

The air-conditioned upstairs lounge at Ayu Wandira, features freshly grilled seafood. Further up the hill, at Uluwatu, Stiff Chilli is churning out innovative pastas, light fragrant salads, and sensational thin crispy wood-fired pizzas laden with all that topping!

At Nusa Dua The Bale opened with 'Faces Restaurant' in Zen-like surroundings. Next door is the Sekar Nusa and its famed Thai restaurant, 'La Terrace'. Meanwhile, 'The Terrace' at Amanusa still sits atop the hill looking down on all around it!

SANUR & UBUD

Sanur is getting into the act. 'Essence' presents great food at reasonable prices. Their Duck Ravioli, covered with slithers of shitake mushrooms, and the Duck and Chicken Confits, are all as good as they sound. Kafe Wayang presents modern Indonesian fare to a welcoming clientele.

Ubud has had a revolution. Always the leader for International coffee shops with Tutmak, Batan Waru and others. It now has Terrazo presenting great food in a casual surrounding. The Shrimps & Vermicelli spring rolls with accompanying ginger mint dip, and magic vegetarian 8 Layer Pie are just two examples. Or Brettone Crepes, for breakfast, up at Panili Vanilla. New Ubud restaurants seem to open weekly, none offering better value than the very successful Bali Pesto.

Ryoshi has moved across the road into new premises. The Turkish Sababa presents an array of Salads, Kebabs and Pide. Maya Sari presents exotic and appetising entrees at a magic riverside setting (Honey & Sesame Chicken with plum sauce, Crab & Lemongrass Cakes, Duck & Shitake Spring Rolls or tasty Chicken Drumlets).

Above Ubud, at Sanggingan, the impressive Mozaic. Wonderful French food in a garden setting. The Moulard Duck Fois Gras and the Roasted NZ Rack of Lamb are outstanding. At Sayan that classy little Warung Red Rice, presents innovative Balinese and Javanese offerings. Whilst further up the mountain, 'biji' at the Begawan Giri caters for those who demand the best of everything.

CANDI DASA & THE NORTH

Candi Dasa has the ex-Mexican Kafe TJ, serving great Asian dishes (Thai Fish Cakes with a sweet and sour cucumber relish, or a Thai Red Prawn Curry, rolled in a soft flour tortilla, a sweet chilli sauce on the side). Close by is 'Kedai' with sensational sates; Chicken mashed with honey, mustard and sage, Tuna with bacon and herbs or King Prawns on lemongrass. Up the road at the Dutch 'Di Mahkota' Smoked Eel or Crispy Fried Shark.

On Bali's northern coast, just to the west of Singaraja, is Lovina. Great value Indonesian food at Warung Bambu Pemaron and the ultimate in gourmet dining at the majestic Damai, perched on the side of the mountain above Lovina. Exotic lunches and snacks (watermelon in balsamic and orange, a cold bloody Mary soup with tomato sorbet, a hot long bean salad in oyster sauce) or the finest of fine dining at night (steamed river prawns, chicken soup with ginten, lemongrass infused fillet of beef with fern tips).

Eating great food, in style, and at a price that makes the rest of the world jealous!

In Bali, you will never go hungry!

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More information: BaliEats.com website