Arguably slightly off-the-beaten track and certainly not situated on any of Bali’s recognized “restaurant rows,” The Masa-Masa Restaurant in Ketewel Village is 10 only kilometers from Sanur Village, and only a stone’s throw from Jalan Bypass Ida Bagu Mantra on the way to the Bali Taman Safari and Marine Park.
Masa-Masa is “the place” to enjoy outstanding Indonesian cuisine, immersed in South Sumatran architectural heritage through two 200-year-old multi-story Palembang mansions lovingly relocated and restored to their new home in Ketewel Village on the Island of Bali.
The two buildings date from the 1700s and originally stood only 500 meters from the Musi River in Palembang, South Sumatra. A green building, known as “Rumah Amir” or “Amir’s House,” has a definite Arab-Melayu nuance. The other building, known as “Rumah Mayor” or “the Major’s House”, is painted red, reflecting its Chinese roots. These buildings now stand side by side, forming a new Palembang neighborhood on the Island of Bali.
Venti Wijayanti, the Restaurant Manager of Masa-Masa, recently said, “The buildings are heritage buildings. Not only Amir’s House, but also the Mayor’s House. Both houses are 200 years old and were originally located in Palembang, on the banks of the Musi River. Palembang was once a global trading metropolis that fostered very diverse cultures. Even though they stand close together, the characters of the houses are different.”
According to Venti, the establishment of these two historic buildings in Bali is linked to the vision of Masa-Masa’s founder, a native son of Palembang with a deep emotional attachment to the culture of his birthplace. When he acquired a suitable piece of land in Ketewel, north of Bali’s capital, Denpasar, on which to build his multifarious business enterprise, he decided to commit to the ambitious undertaking of relocating the two buildings to the Island of Bali in a “spirit of cross-culturalism” and cultural mutual admiration.
The painstaking job of moving the two buildings from Palembang to Bal – a distance of 1,300 kilometers – involved the laborious piece-by-piece disassembly of the structures by Palembang craftsmen.
Parts of the relocated buildings are used by the owner’s garment manufacturing business and outstanding boutique shops.
Rumah Amir’s original architectural character was carefully preserved, beginning with its dark green coloration, Ironwood (Kayu Ulin) interior, distinctive Arab and Malay decorative accents, and other elements expressing profound Portuguese and Dutch influences.
Meanwhile, Rumah Mayor was restored and rebuilt in Bali, retaining its red exterior. The building’s durable ironwood construction has kept it impervious to the harsh conditions of Bali and Palembang’s tropical environments.
Bolstered by the relocation of these two magnificent heritage buildings to Bali, Masa-Masa presents authentic Indonesian cuisine. What awaits diners is a multi-faceted culinary experience featuring Peranakan or Nyonya Cuisine. Talented chefs masterfully combine elements of Arab, Malay, Indonesian, and Chinese cooking, presented proudly in their new home in Ketewel, just a brief drive from Bali’s capital, Denpasar.
Peranakan – Nonya Cookery
While Peraakan or Nyonya Cuisine ranks high in the pantheon of Indonesian culinary delights, there are surprisingly few restaurants in Bali serving this style of food.
Peranakan or Nyonya cuisine derives from the “Peranakans” – the descendants of Chinese migrants who settled in Penang, Malacca, Singapore, and Indonesia. The resulting cultural exchange was bidirectional, with many Chinese converting to Islam and many Muslims converting to Chinese Buddhism.
In addition, a Malay-based creole language was created and widely spoken for a period, particularly in Singapore.
Women who intermarried into Chinese households were referred to as “Baba Malay.” Over time, their kitchens blended taste sensations from China, Malaysia, Java, and South India. The sumptuous results were food delicacies hard to resist – at once tangy, aromatic, spicy, and herbal. Coconut milk is featured prominently in Peranakan recipes.
Open daily from 9:00 am until 10:00 pm, the talented chefs at Masa-Masa serve unique dishes that include:
- Rendang Nyonya – the undisputed signature dish of Indonesia, comprised of ingredients that include beef, coconut milk, chilies, shallots, galangal, candlenuts, laksa leaf, tamarind juice, lemon grass, torch ginger, and kaffir lime leaves.
- Jellyfish Rujak – a signature dish at Masa-Masa employing blanched jellyfish and shrimp, sambal, serundeng, peanuts, ginger, and shallots.
- Kare Kapitan – a specialty curry recipe.
- Gado-Gado – an Indonesian specialty of blanched vegetables smothered in a spicy peanut sauce.
- Nasi Sela with Grilled Tenderloin – The Palembang standby of Yam/Taro rice and grilled tenderloin steak.
- Ikan Bakar – BBQ and deliciously charcoal-grilled fish.
- Dadar Padang – an omelets of chicken and eggs fried with shallots, garlic, mixed herbs, and chili paste,
- Pempek Palembang – a savory terine of fish and tapioca served with a sweet and sour sauce.
- Palembang-Style Nasi Campur – a convocation of delicious local dishes served on a single, large plate.
- Asam Laksa – an Indian-Inspired curry soup of garden vegetables and glass noodles.
- Ikan Asam Pedas – Fresh fish bathed in a spicy-hot sauce.
Those seeking a dose of wellness can sample a nice assortment of Jamu – traditional herbal tonics presented on the menu.
Ample parking is available. Before or after dining, consider taking a hidden shortcut path for a walk along the Ketewel beach seaside while visiting two local Balinese temples just minutes away from Masa Masa.
Outdoors and private dining room options are available. A talented Barista and Bartender are on duty, serving outstanding coffee brews and tempting cocktails.
Masa Masa
Jl. Subak Telaga I No.9, Ketewel, Kec.
Sukawati, Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali 80582
Address: Jl. Subak Telaga I No.9, Ketewel, Kec. Sukawati, Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali 80582
Phone: +62 -0819-4630-5122
